Madrid 18.3.12 - 22.3.12

Gatwick is much easier these days, they've conquered the queues; and what better way to start the holiday than the Wetherspoon's beer festival?

Madrid is less than two hours away and it was easy to reach the centre on the cheap, fast and efficient metro. 

We stayed in Chueca, a barrio to the north of the centre, but in easy walking distance.  It has many bars and funky shops.  Our first tapas crawl was in Plaza Santa Barbara. 

If you buy any food in the Cien Montaditos chain(including patatas fritas or a big plate of the best olives ever) you will be rewarded with a jarra of Mahou from the tap for just 1E.

http://www.100montaditos.com/

Look for the sign

Next day we explored.

Palacio Longoria was designed by José Grasés Riera in 1902 as a residence for the banker Javier González Longoria. It is now owned by a Spanish writers association.

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The  Thyssen-Bornemisza Gallery opened in 1992.  Anyone who can prove they were born that year, is entitled to free entry. The private collection of the late Baron Hans-Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza consists of over 700 paintings, and originally came to Madrid on loan.  In 1993 a purchase agreement was signed with the Spanish state. The Baron's decision to sell was influenced both by his wife, Carmen 'Tita' Cervera, a former Miss Spain, and by the offer to house the collection in the then-empty 19th century Palacio de Villahermosa. 

The gallery houses many impressionist works: a Degas dancer, several Van Gogh's , and some of Gauguin's African influenced works as well as early Flemish and Italian art.  It brings us into the last century with Picasso, Lichenstein , Bacon, Dali and Hopper.

My paseo del Arte (20 E) allowed me to visit the Thyssen-Bornemisza Gallery as well as The Prado and Sofia Reina galleries on another day.  

La Casa del Abuelo is a traditional standing room only bar where we enjoyed Gambas a la Plancha  (on the recommendation of P) and a caña with A (thanks for the company and local knowledge!)

As in all Spanish cities, small privately owned food and clothes shops still flourish in Madrid

and for K and J....

We also visited Caixa Forum Madrid, which is a post-modern art gallery in the centre of Madrid, Spain. It is sponsored by the Catalan-Balearic bank. 

We saw the exhibition about Ballet Russe, which had previously been at the V&A, and also featured in Picasso in Britain at Tate National. 

Next morning it was cold and wet and my soul mate went back to the UK.

I found a good way to cheer myself up.

El Museo Reina Sofia was opened in 1992 and is situated in an 18th century hospital and newer wing. It houses 20C art.

The highlight of the collection is Pablo Picasso's Guernica (1937).  This is the most important political statement of the 20th century, 'en mi opinión'. It bought tears to my eyes when I saw it in the Prado in 1986.  My 2012 experience was no different. 




We watched Ken Loach's Land and Freedom  (1995) to enhance our sombre mood

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_and_Freedom

The Prado was overwhelming, but I wouldn't have missed this superb and huge collection of European masterpieces.  The most important work for me is el 3 de mayo.  This is a must after Guernica and sadly relevant 200 years after it was painted by the wonderful Francisco de Goya.



In 1985, Atocha Station was remodeled, and in 1992, the original building was taken out of service as a terminal, and converted into a concourse with shops, cafés, and a covered tropical garden.

Madrid has a plethora of beautiful plazas

The Mercardo San Antón in the Chueca district has been renovated to great effect.  It offers a comprehensive range of food outlets and cafes.

I was not disappointed on re-visiting Madrid. It's a great , manageable city with superb art.  I left Madrid on one of the wonderfully cheap, efficient and comfortable AVE trains headed for Córdoba

Córdoba, Andalusia 22.3.12 - 24.3.12

The no 4 bus took me to the small and friendly Hotel La Boutique Puerta Osario.  Just 3 stops.

The road is so narrow you have to jump on the pavement and take a deep breath if a car comes along.

From the hotel the town was easily re discovered in an afternoon sun.

Breakfast and dinner are both a stone's throw away in the nearest plaza (San Miguel).  And by luck, there is Cien Montaditos!

Dinner was taken in the hugely popular (with locals) El Pisto.  (And that's what I ate, with Rosada.  Think I'll turn into a fish, swim home and not be able to face Waitrose's best for some time!)

I was excited about seeing The Mezquita again.  It's essential to visit before 10am for three reasons: it's free, there are no groups and you have to be silent.  It's a travesty that they won't let Muslims worship there.

Here's a door.

To read up on the Mezquita see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathedral%E2%80%93Mosque_of_C%C3%B3rdoba
Here's another door.

And the garden (in the afternoon)

A close up of the bell tower (added much later by the Christians, see the link above) follows on my next post

Córdoba 22-3-12 to 24-3-12 continued

Above is the bell tower of th Mezquita in the early morning, when there are no crowds and all is peaceful.  I went inside to the simple beautiful serenity. It takes away the breath. 

The central catholic altar is a slight carbuncle but at times the two religions combined well

Then it was time for coffee and churros nearby.

Next stop was the Alcazar, which is free till 10.30.  Take note.

Córdoba 22-3-12 to 24-3-12 continued

The Alcazar seemed simple, beautiful and peaceful.  Climbing the towers was good (?)  for the quads.  For background see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alc%C3%A1zar_de_los_Reyes_Cristianos

I liked the tiles and mosaics inside the Alcazar

Above is the Medusa.

Leaving Córdoba 24.3.12

I really enjoyed re-visiting one of my favourite places.  The city has a historic centre yet it's easy to escape to the real Spain in the barrios and modern centre.  On my last evening I visited the hammam or Arab Baths (replica of same)  Very soothing.  I enjoyed the sweet mint tea but passed on the massage complete with suds.  Gorgeous water to swim in.

http://cordoba.hammamalandalus.com/

Here are some miscellaneous shots of Córdoba and views taken on the train to Málaga.

Above is a door inside the Mezquita.

Málaga 24-26 March 2012

Tired of my own company, I was looking forward to meeting up with C and enjoying the first week of her retirement.  The Don Paco Hotel is a traditional and friendly place just 3 minutes walk from the main bus and  railway stations.  (The latter is the Maria Zambrano Station, which is the penultimate station on the line from Fuengirola, which is also the line for the Airport, which is less than 15 mins from Maria Zambrano  1.15E for a single).  It was good to walk by the sea front through the Paseo El  Parque.

One of us connected with the child inside, as above..

Bar Malaga, on Calle Santa Maria leading form Plaza de la Constitución has a small bar serving Cruzcampo from an ornate gold tap.  The service is very friendly .

Upstairs is a small restaurant where we had a delicious sea food paella and half a bottle of rioja.  Here is a photo of the paintings on the walls.

Next day we happened upon the beautifully situated and picturesque English Cemetery.  It was very sad to see graves of small children who died a century and a half ago.

Later we met up with G, who took this photo of us in the alcazaba. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcazaba_of_M%C3%A1laga

Above is a door to the huge cathedral, which is impressive (despite the lack of a tower)

I was glad that C liked  Málaga, which to me is an underrated city and far more than an airport.

We finished up enjoying fish tapas in the street. The waiter below loves his job!